Saturday, July 20, 2013

More Verona in the morning then off to Bologna

It was definitely more comfortable walking in the cooler morning hours.  We strolled up to the Piazza del Erbe, but ran into a wall of tourists there.  The umbrella stalls for the most part were selling souvenirs. Otherwise, it's a very attractive square.
We were tempted to come back for lunch to this restaurant right off the Piazza.
However, after some more walking, it was time to get back to the hotel, pack our bags and kill some time.  What better way than a leisurely lunch.

We had seen "Il Torcolo" last night after the opera, but it was closed.  Again, it was one of those family run affairs.  The owner, a congenial younger man, apparently does business from the first table as you enter the restaurant.  A constant stream of vendors came in, had an espresso, made the deal, and then left. The nonna's job was to fill the water bottles.  She would get a large, blue bottle from the main bar in the other room, walk across the entire restaurant to the kitchen, then return with the full bottle, deposit it in the main bar and start the whole process again.  Of course she would stop and chat with people she knew at the other tables to relieve the boredom.  I think she had stockpiled about eight bottles, was returning with the ninth, when a collective gasp went up from everyone in the room.  The men leapt to their feet, the women covered their mouths with their hands. From our perspective, all we could see of nonna was a gnarled hand still holding the blue bottle above the edge of the table with the tall centerpiece and a foot projecting laterally at the table base.  After much struggling, the men heaved nonna to her feet.  She was OK.  With almost a theatrical bow she waved to the crowd, and with a slight limp, went into the other room to add bottle number nine to her stock.
Nonna aside, we thought the restaurant was attractive with it's pale yellow walls with hand painted leaf designs.  The bar was well stocked with all manner of Italian aperitivos, liquors, and grappa.  The food was fresh and light, just the thing on a hot day.
This dish was a special standout, whole poached lobster from Sardegna with salad on top.
Afterwards, we retrieved our bags from the hotel, taxied to the Stazione Porta Nuova and boarded the FrecciaArgento high speed train to Bologna.

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